Saturday, December 5, 2020

Chef (2014)

This week, I checked out The Great British Baking Show for the first time -- not bad, but I get tired of focusing on pastries after a while. So when I perused my list and found an entry about cooking, I thought it might be something of an antidote.

In L.A., amicably divorced head chef Carl (Jon Favreau, who's also the director) gets panned by a critic (Oliver Platt) for a culinary rut brought on by a restrictive restaurant owner (Dustin Hoffman). When his angry reaction goes viral, he loses his job. Unwilling to capitalize on his infamy with reality TV, he picks an option he'd long rejected: traveling the country in a food truck, accompanied by pal and ex-line cook Martin (John Leguizamo). Not only does Carl have his creative freedom back, but he makes more time than ever for his 10-year-old son, Percy (Emjay Anthony), who comes along for the summer and bonds with him in a big way.

Despite the strong presence of a kid, this movie is rated R, primarily because the kitchen staff swear like sailors. It's one of Carl's stated reasons for not letting Percy come to his workplace before. It lets up in the second half, when there are only two adults in the truck and generally less stress; indeed, it almost feels like another movie at that point.

I'd complain, but I get the impression of authenticity in the dialog, for reasons beyond profanity. In general, the story is pretty credible for a comedy-drama. The main thing that gives me pause is that Percy sometimes acts a little younger than I recall of kids his age, but he makes up for that with his Web savvy, which blows away his surprisingly naive father. BTW, the way tweets are presented on screen is kind of a cute touch.

Curious about the food? Well, the restaurant is French, but the truck specializes in Cuban-style sandwiches, and Carl makes a point to introduce Percy to real New Orleans fare. I may have to order from a local Cuban place soon -- not my usual cuisine, but now it looks tempting. I may also have to take more chances on food trucks. Just because they're mobile doesn't mean they skimp on quality.

This being Favreau, we get a few more familiar names in the cast. Scarlett Johansson plays Carl's waitress and semi-girlfriend. Sofia Vergara plays his ex-wife with an apparently Cuban background. Robert Downey, Jr. becomes a one-scene wonder as her helpful other ex-husband, wealthy but more eccentric than Tony Stark. Amy Sedaris is, if I'm not mistaken, Carl's publicist. And Bobby Cannavale is the sous chef.

It's moderately funny when it tries to be, but I like it better for the heartwarming side. This is no [i]Big Night[/i]; there's a very happy ending. And I can appreciate the message of making sure your career doesn't stifle you or your family life. Along with the implicit lesson about not forgetting your manners when provoked.

Favreau's not the most reliable director these days, but I put Chef in the plus column. See it when you can afford to whet your appetite.

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